The desire for jewels exists everywhere, and this is an overview written by someone with a deep understanding of jewellery and its place in both fashion and politics. There are some great vignettes, especially about the rise of cultured pearls and the influence of De Beer’s on the emergence of diamonds as fashion essentials.

Raden is less sure about history, though, and sometimes gets carried away with detail that doesn’t in any way relate to the issues at hand. Many of the comments are alarmingly ahistorical: describing Mary Tudor as “mad” and “insane”, for example, for actions that were perfectly sensible in the context of a religious war between Catholics and Protestants. And the notion that there being no market economy means that nothing can have value assigned to it, or that any attempt to better workers’ conditions amounts simply to socialism, betrays her own background more than it illuminates either the history of the jewellery.

3/5. Finished Sunday 21 November, 2021.

(Originally published on Goodreads.)